Routers are power tools that are used when working with wood to cut sections from the timber. You can use this tool to decorate the edges or surfaces of a piece of wood, or you can cut a chase into the side of a piece of wood to hide electrical cables or pipes. And for routing table for routers, we have top rated router table reviews available.
You can use a router to put a slot in a piece of wood, but this takes skill and a router. Likewise a drill press, you can drill a series of holes in a line and cut out the excess with a chisel. But I'm guessing you don't have tools like a router and drill press otherwise you would not be asking this question. Part of the process is to cut a slot (about.25' wide x 8' deep) into an 8X6 rough sawn timber. They do it with a special chain saw sled that they sell for $260. I wouldn't really have use for such a tool after this project so I'm looking at ways to do it with more conventional tools. Use adhesives and let the wood fully dry when you like the curvature. To learn more about the process, read my detailed article here. Method 2: Kerf-Cut Bending. Using a table saw, cut parallel slots along a piece of wood. You want to make sure they’re not too deep, so the wood doesn’t crack or break.
Turn on the drill press and drill the each end hole to define the slot – drilling about two-thirds to three-quarters of the way through the board. After that, just keep drilling holes and moving the work piece along the fence, overlapping holes just enough to keep point of the bit entering new wood.
Originally, routers were used for their decorative uses; however, they are now one of the most efficient and versatile woodworking machines. You can use a router to cut and shape wood, and you can create grooves, joins, and channels in wood.
Knowing how to correctly use your router to cut a channel in wood is important to achieving a high-quality result. Read on to find out more about routers and how to use them to cut a channel in wood.
Types of Routers
The two router types that you can consider are a fixed model and a plunge model. There are also different power capabilities so you can select a model based on your needs. For light work, a 400 – 600W router will be sufficient.
For medium work, a 750 – 1200W router will work well. For heavy work, a 1200W and up router is ideal. Routers also come with varying speeds, which range between 800 and 30,000 revolutions per minute. Top rated wood routers reviews are also available. CNC routers are also considered best, cnc router reviews are available too.
Features of a Router
Routers have handles on either side of them so that you have proper control and grip on the machine while in use. To ensure that the router can travel easily over the timber you are routing, the base plate must be smooth. The flat side of the base plate should be run along a fence in order to keep the router straight.
Different routers have blades with different cutting depths. If you are using a plunge router, you should only take a little depth with each pass. If you take too much depth, you may burn out the motor over time. Rather, lock the blade’s depth so you maintain equal depth with each pass. There are many wood routers, but most wanted plunge routers are also available in the market. Check Triton TRA001 plunge router review as well.
Using a Router
The biggest concern when using a router is always safety. This is because a router cuts wood with an unguarded, spinning, high speed blade.
Secure the Wood
Ensure that the fence edge is straight and smooth. Any nicks or bumps along the fence edge will affect your channel. When using a fence to cut wood, you will often need to additionally support the wood as it is machined. This gives you a bigger base area for your router to move along, which prevents any tipping.
Choose the Feed Direction
When you rout the middle of the wood, there’s no wrong or right feed direction as the router surrounds the wood. However, it is advised that you always move in a left to right movement so that the fence is pulled down in place.
Select the Router Bit
The cutter’s bit diameter will determine the depth and width of the channel you cut. If you want a ½ inch channel, you need to use a ½ inch cutter diameter. If you want your channel to be wider than the bit diameter that you have, you will have to make a few passes.
Avoid Tear-Away
Tear-out can sometimes occur as you first touch the router to the wood and when you lift the router from the wood. To avoid this, place a piece of scrap wood at each end of the work wood so you can start and end with the scrap wood rather than your project.
Things to Remember When Using a Router
- Always move the router in a left to right motion so the fence stays pulled down in place.
- Never force your router through the wood you are working with.
- Check that you release the plunge lock after you are done.
- Ensure that your wood router is cleaned when you are finished.
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Do not forget to ensure that your eyes and hands are protected before you begin working. Make sure that you have securely fastened the wood in place so that no accidents or injuries occur. Bear in mind that your router’s blades are very sharp so make sure that nothing of value is in the blade’s path. Keeping in mid these instructions, you can use all types of wood routers.
After a bit of practice, you can start undertaking more intense projects. However, remember that, just because routing a channel is a simple project, it should still be taken seriously and the correct process should be followed.
RonB wrote:> > Well, you could get all tooled up with a hollow chisel mortiser,
> > or all burly with a mallet and a mortising chisel,
> > but if you are more into getting the job done fisrly fast and
> > not buying fancy tools, a good sized router with a carbide bit
> > and a jig should get the job done
> This router approach is kinda what I had in mind when I asked my
> question. I suspected it was a rail-type of fence. You probably
> wouldn't have to go all the way through...just a couple of inches
> to allow the boards to be inserted and fastened.
I should have thought of that. No need to go all the way through the
posts, except that it means the slots are automatically aligned
properly.
I have a floor-standing drill press with a cross-slide vice, I also have
a relatively large router - but no router table. It would be more of a
hassle to set the router up to do these posts vs the drill press.
I suppose I could use a router bit on the drill press.
There are also drills that cut side-ways (don't know what they're called
exactly). If these are cedar posts, I suppose it's soft enough to try
one of those drills instead of a 1' diam x 2' deep router bit.
How To Make A Slot In Wood
> > Pay attention to drainage or you'll have rotted boards in
> > short order.
How To Make A T Slot In Wood
I've had some good experience with using PL-Premium adhesive on exposed,
outdoor wood. Seems to hold up well under intermittent water exposure,
and winter/summer temperature swings. I'm thinking that using liberal
amounts of that glue to hold the boards in the slots (and sealing up the
slots in the process) might be the way to go. Yes?